Why Venice Surprised Me: A Traveler’s True Experience

Venice wasn’t high on my list.

Venice wasn’t high on my list.

I thought I’d find a city overrun with tourists, too staged to feel authentic. But instead, I found something else entirely: beauty in layers, quiet in unexpected corners, and a charm that slowly sneaks up on you.

It’s not perfect. But it’s captivating. Venice won me over.

🚗 Arriving by car? Easier than expected.

We arrived in a Fiat 500, crossing the main causeway that links the mainland to the islands. No chaos, no confusion — just a smooth drive and easy parking at Garage San Marco, which I had booked online in advance. (You need a reservation — it’s the only way in.)

From there, Venice is yours to explore — no traffic, no horns, just boats, bridges, and footsteps.

🏨 Hotel Novecento: A hidden gem

We stayed at Hotel Novecento, and it couldn’t have been better. The hotel is small and full of personality, with elegant Moorish decor, a peaceful garden, and truly welcoming hosts.

Breakfast was fresh and delicious — and yes, they had gluten-free options, which for a coeliac like me is a rare win. If you’re looking for somewhere stylish, quiet and personal, this place delivers.

🚤 The gondola ride: not exactly magical

We did the classic 30-minute gondola ride (€90 during the day, €110 at sunset). And… it was fine.

Gondolas ride slightly tilted most of the time, and you end up ducking under low bridges more than actually sightseeing. It wasn’t awful, but it didn’t feel worth the price either.

But watching the gondolas from the bridges? Beautiful. They glide through the canals with a kind of effortlessness that makes you want to freeze time — and they’re part of what makes Venice feel alive.

Also worth admiring: the wooden water taxis. Their deep brown nautical finish and polished curves are pure visual poetry.

👃 And about the smell?

I’ve heard this question so many times: “Does Venice smell bad?”

Honestly, not really.
There were a couple of brief moments where we caught a bit of a musty odor, but they passed quickly and weren’t a big deal. Overall, it was cleaner and fresher than I expected.

👟 A detail I didn’t expect to love: the shoes

Scattered throughout small artisan shops in Venice, you’ll find brightly colored, handmade velvet slippers — a traditional Venetian design.

They come in deep reds, royal blues, mustard yellows… It’s like a painter’s palette in shoe form. Even if you don’t buy a pair (I was tempted), they’re beautiful to look at — a small example of how Venice still holds on to its crafts and character.

⛪ Visiting St. Mark’s Basilica: Beautiful, but take note

The Basilica di San Marco is stunning — golden mosaics, shimmering light, and centuries of history packed into one building. But there are two things you should know:

1. Dress code is enforced.
   You need to cover your shoulders and knees. No tank tops or short shorts — even in summer.
2. Booking tickets online? Forget it.
   I tried multiple times and always got the same message: “sold out.”
   In the end, I had no problem buying tickets at the on-site ticket counter, even without a reservation.

🍽️ Eating in Venice — easier than I feared

I thought Venice would be the kind of place where you can’t get a table without a reservation, or where every meal costs a small fortune. Thankfully, I was wrong.

Yes, there are tourist-packed areas (Rialto, St. Mark’s), but we had no trouble finding good places to eat, even spontaneously. There’s a wide range of price points, and if you walk just a few streets away from the crowds, you’ll find quieter, better spots.

As a coeliac, I stuck mostly to big salads and beef tartare, because while many menus list allergens (gluten is usually allergen #1), cross-contamination is rarely addressed, and that always makes me cautious. I’ll be sharing a dedicated post on gluten-free food in Italy soon.

🥾 Getting around on foot (and the bridge problem)

Walking in Venice is the best way to experience it. It’s a slow, wandering kind of city, full of beautiful corners and tiny squares you’d never find if you stuck to the map.

But: be ready for bridges. Dozens of them. If you’re dragging a suitcase or have any mobility issues, this becomes a real challenge. Accessibility in Venice is still far behind.

The public transport system is mostly made up of vaporetto (boat buses). They’re efficient, but they can get very crowded, especially during peak hours. Sometimes, walking is faster — and almost always more scenic.

🧭 Final thoughts

I didn’t expect to love Venice as much as I did.
But now I get it.

The city has its flaws, of course. But it also has a rhythm and a beauty that sneak up on you. Even the simple act of walking to dinner feels like a small adventure. The light is different here. The silence, between bridges, is somehow louder.

Would I go back? Without hesitation.

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btw, all photos were taken with iphones as I forgot my Leica battery charger back in Lisbon and decided to save the battery for the Lakes!

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