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Last updated Nov 2026
Short answer: yes, you can still get proper beach days around Lisbon at the turn of November, but treat them as a bonus, not a plan. Official averages for Lisbon in November are a high of about 18 °C and the wettest month of the year. On the last Saturday of October we got 25 °C, a cloudless sky and a long, slow lunch on the sand at Kailua, in Fonte da Telha, just across the river from Lisbon. This is that afternoon, plus what we would tell a friend planning Portugal in November.
The weekend summer came back
Every year it happens at least once. The clocks go back, everyone in Lisbon pulls out a jacket, and then the weekend arrives with a sky so blue it looks edited. On Saturday, 31 October 2026, the four of us (Vânia, Guilherme, Catarina and me) decided not to waste it. We headed south across the river to Fonte da Telha, the far end of the Costa da Caparica, and sat down at Kailua.
It was about 25 °C. Sun on the face, the Atlantic glittering, people walking barefoot along the waterline as if it were September. Our first photos there are from a quarter past three, the last from just after six. That tells you how much of a hurry we were in to leave.
Kailua at Fonte da Telha: what it is
Kailua is a beach restaurant and bar right on the sand at Praia Lareira, Fonte da Telha (Av. Vasco da Gama, Costa da Caparica). It sits between the Atlantic and the cliffs of the Arriba Fóssil, the protected fossil cliff that runs behind this whole stretch of coast. The look is very much “Hawaii on the Caparica”: straw parasols, palm trees, wooden decks and low sofas you sink into.
You can sit in different zones: under the covered pergola, on the terrace, or at tables and sofas directly on the sand. On a day like that, the tables on the sand, with nothing between you and the sea, are the ones to aim for.
What we ate (and the one thing I would skip)
We shared a few plates around the table:
- Dadinhos, bite-sized and made for sharing.
- Sushi.
- Tacos.
Honestly, everything was good. No complaints about the food at all.
The one thing I would not order again is the Kailua sangria. I really do not recommend it: far too much fruit pulp, so it drinks more like a thick smoothie than a sangria. On a hot afternoon you want something light and refreshing, and this was not it. Get something else from the drinks list and you will be happier.
A note for coeliacs like me: I am not going to review the gluten-free side of this lunch here, because I did not take notes on it and I only write what I can stand behind. What I can tell you is that Kailua’s online menu uses an allergen legend that includes a gluten-free marker, so check it before you go and talk to the staff when you order. Our gluten-free disclaimer applies, as always.
The real reason to go: the spot, the view, the sun
If I had to sum up the afternoon in one line, it would be this: the spot, the view and the sun filled the soul. The food was good, but what stays with you is the light, the sound of the waves, the feeling of stealing one more summer day when the calendar says it is over.
Around four o’clock the camera went down to the waterline. The beach was busy but relaxed, with families paddling, surfers coming in and out, and that soft, low autumn light that you simply do not get in July.
Portugal in November: what the weather is really like
A day like ours is the best-case scenario, so here are the numbers, to keep expectations honest. According to the Portuguese met office (IPMA) climate normals for Lisbon, 1991–2020:
- Average high in November: 18.1 °C. Average low: 11.8 °C.
- Rain: about 134 mm on average, which makes November the wettest month of the year in Lisbon.
- Days reaching 25 °C: on average 0.1 per November, so practically none. October averages about seven.
Source: IPMA, Normal Climatológica Lisboa / Instituto Geofísico 1991–2020.
So yes, 25 °C at the very end of October was a gift. What you can realistically expect in November is a mix of mild, bright days in the high teens and spells of proper Atlantic rain. The good news is that a sunny November day in the Lisbon area is still lovely for a long lunch outside, a walk on the beach or a viewpoint, even if it is not swimming weather for most people.
How to plan around it
- Keep the beach day flexible. Check the forecast two or three days out and move your coast day to the sunniest one.
- Go for lunch, not for dinner. After the clocks go back on the last Sunday of October, the evenings get dark early. Arrive around lunchtime and enjoy the best light of the afternoon.
- Pack layers. It can feel like summer in the sun and cool the moment it sets or the wind picks up.
- Book ahead on sunny weekends. When the forecast is good, half of Lisbon has the same idea.
How to get to Fonte da Telha from Lisbon
Fonte da Telha is on the south side of the Tagus, at the southern end of the Costa da Caparica beaches, in the municipality of Almada.
- By car: the easiest option, especially with kids. Cross the river (the 25 de Abril bridge is the direct route from central Lisbon) and follow signs to Costa da Caparica and then Fonte da Telha. On sunny weekends, expect the area to be busy and give yourself extra time.
- By ferry + bus: take the ferry from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas, then Carris Metropolitana bus line 3012 (Cacilhas – Fonte da Telha), which ends right by the beach. Check the live timetable before you go, as frequency varies.
- The beach train: the little Transpraia train along the Caparica beaches traditionally ran only in summer and was reported out of service recently, so do not count on it in November.
If you want to stay on this side of the river instead of commuting from Lisbon, compare places to stay in Costa da Caparica. For a short autumn break it can be a calmer base than the city centre, with the beaches on your doorstep.
More sunny-November ideas in Portugal
- Arrábida and Sesimbra. A little further south, the Arrábida Natural Park and the fishing town of Sesimbra make a great clear-day trip. If you do not want to drive, this Arrábida and Sesimbra day trip from Lisbon on GetYourGuide includes pickup in Lisbon.
- The Algarve. The south coast is the classic winter-sun choice in mainland Portugal. We put together where to stay in the Algarve with a family, with real prices.
- Madeira. If you want to fly somewhere for late-autumn sun, read our Madeira with kids itinerary and where to stay in Funchal.
- Lisbon itself. On rainy days, eat well. Our New Year’s Day lunch at Cervejaria Liberdade is a good example of a cosy Lisbon meal when the weather turns.
And if you are here for the real thing in summer, our Portuguese summer post and the Azores island-hopping itinerary are good places to start. Everything we have written about this country lives in the Portugal category.
FAQ
Is November a good time to visit Portugal?
It can be, if you like mild temperatures, fewer crowds and do not mind some rain. In Lisbon the average November high is about 18 °C (IPMA 1991–2020), but it is also the wettest month of the year, so plan a flexible itinerary with indoor options for rainy days.
Can you go to the beach in Lisbon in November?
Yes, for walks, long lunches and sunshine. Warm days do happen, like the 25 °C we had on 31 October 2026 at Fonte da Telha, but they are the exception rather than the rule, so check the forecast and pick your day.
Is Kailua at Fonte da Telha worth it?
For the setting, absolutely. The location right on the sand, the view of the Atlantic and the relaxed beach atmosphere are the main reasons to go. Our dadinhos, sushi and tacos were all good. The only thing we would skip is the house Kailua sangria, which had far too much fruit pulp for our taste.
Does Kailua have gluten-free options?
We did not document the gluten-free options on this visit, so we cannot review them. Kailua’s online menu has an allergen legend with a gluten-free marker. If you are coeliac, check the current menu and speak to the staff when you order.
How do I get from Lisbon to Fonte da Telha without a car?
Take the ferry from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas and then Carris Metropolitana bus 3012 to Fonte da Telha, which stops by the beach. Check the timetable on the Carris Metropolitana website before travelling.
Have you had a “stolen summer day” in Portugal this autumn? Tell us where in the comments. We are always looking for the next one.
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